Morning. Coffee on the terrazzo. Sitting and watching a thunder boomer, un "temporale" play out over the silhouette of Citta' Sant' Angelo. I think trivial thoughts like "I hope it blows over; this is a designated beach day." And "Is it headed this way; I wonder if I should water the plants?" I used to find these kinds of thoughts shallow. I used to be ashamed of them. After all, there are wars, gun violence, rape culture, starving children, aids, Alzheimer's, and illnesses occurring at the same time these thoughts arise. But now, I admit, I find the trivial thoughts a relief. A break from all the chatter exhorting me to save the world. A release from the Facebook memes and the petition signing requests and pleas for a $50 or whatever-you-can-give-we-are-grateful-for which will make a difference between us and the baddies winning on any issue.
Man, that thunder just keeps rolling along!
Whoa! Three streaks of lightening flashed in perfectly timed sequence, as if they were illuminating a Rolling Stones concert on the other side of the hills.
Whoa! Now the Stones have moved north towards Montefino and are really kicking up the light
show!
But the woman from the pasta shop, in her pink smock and white triangular scarf leans against the bellevedere railing having a slow smoke. There goes Fernando down the stairs to the parking lot. He pauses briefly after a loud boom, looks up, and continues down without changing his pace. Here comes Donatella's voice, always full of laughter, even when she is just speaking. It's mingled with the men's voices jabbing the humid air more and more sharply as their excitability grows. A dog runs across the main road. He slows to a stroll once he is out of the traffic flow and licks himself. This is the way of a localized way of living. Life in the here and now. With the people next to us who we can see and touch. Whose lives we observe or in which we are involved first hand. Whose presence (or lack of it) is felt (or missed) daily in the vegetables, fish, bread, clean laundry, clothing, smiles, and conversations they provide. Whose impact is felt first hand when they are gone. That storm? It's on the other side of the world.
I think I will water the plants. And let the light show roll on.
Saturday, June 14, 2014
Tuesday, June 10, 2014
The Queen of CMR
"Once upon a time..." That's how fairy tales begin. That's how this one begins, too. Although as far as I know there were no fairies or magic involved. Once upon a time....a palace was built. In the 1400's. When the hamlet that would eventually be ruled by Raimondo Caldara and named "Castiglione Messer Raimondo" was emerging from its feudal state. There was still a vestige of feudalism when the palace was built, a landed gentry system. Wealthy families who owned hectares of land grew what was needed for the village to survive. They owned the space where artisans and craftspeople made the scythes, dishes, cloth, and where they ground grain. Where the miller's wife, the mugniaia, made the region's signature pasta which would bear her name. Those who didn't own land were employees of those who did. Kind of like corporations today, only rustic. There were several landed gentry families and at least 4 of their palazzi survive in Castiglione Messer Raimondo. Gilda lives in one of them.
She wasn't born there. Nor did she begin her life there.
She wasn't born there. Nor did she begin her life there.
She began her life on a rotating board placed in a small, arched opening of a convent. Kind of like a lazy Susan for unwanted babies. The nuns took her in. No one has told me how long she was there before being taken in by the padrone of the grand palazzo. Its vaulted ceilings in the entrance hall and in each room are decorated with frescoes. The terrazzo at the far end of the hall has an unrestricted view of the Gran Sasso mountains. The surface of its travertine floor is easily twice that
of my daughter's Brooklyn apartment.
"C' e' una grande cantina sotto" she tells me as she guides me through the fraction of the 30 rooms that make up the palazzo. She points to the floor below as if I can see through it to the big cellar she is describing.
"Una volta c' era una festa per piu' di 300 persone!"
My eyes widen. "A party for 300 people down there?!"
"PIU ' di 300!" MORE than 300! She exclaims, throwing her arms in the air.
"Wow." is all I can manage, unable to find an Italian equivilent.
Gilda now throws her arms around me. "Brava! Capisci bene l'italiano! E' parli bene!"
Her compliments about my language competence seem to magically make it a fact.
No one knows how long Gilda has lived in the palazzo. No one knows or will tell her age. Perhaps per Gilda's orders. But she will tell you she was quite young when she began working in the house, cooking, serving, doted on by the padrone until his death. His will stipulated that if his children did not wish to keep and live in the house that it should go to her. They didn't and it did.
Watching her move about her kitchen, directing us dinner guests who have offered to help her prepare the pasta fagioli, deep fried green olives, and quiche-like appetizer stuffed with spinach and ground meat, it seems as though Gilda is simultaneously servant and queen. Her movements are quick, direct, accurate as she drains the pasta, stirs the sauce, removes the beans from the flame, and pours all of them in a graceful cascade into a deep, wide bowl.
We, her adoring assistants, scurry to bring the food out to the long table on the terrazzo. She has invited my current Casa da Carmine guests, 8 of their family members, and me to a Sunday evening cena.
"No, no, no!" Tony, my houseguest, had protested. "E' troppo lavoro! Too much work!"
Gilda had pointed at each of us, one at a time, and said "La domenica. Alle 7." Sunday at 7.
One by one we acquiesced.
When we sat down, Gilda was at the head of the table, chin high, eyes sparkling. No one dared begin to eat until she gave the all clear.
"Buon apetito!" She said, and as if choreographed by a gran dame of dance, we began passing plates around. Gilda sat and beamed. She had not always been this way. The stalwart, big-hearted, undisputed queen of CMR. No one knows what prompted her turn of fate. From serving girl to property owner. No one knows why il padrone ceded his palace to her. There are speculations. You
may join in them with your own imagination. There is no speculation or doubt, however, that Gilda has taken the scepter with complete aplomb.
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